
- Audrey and Lee

July 1941, the defiant image that characterised Audrey Withers’ wartime Vogue In September 1944 Vogue’s editor, Audrey Withers, published a four-page spread with two turns at the back of the magazine on a field hospital in France. It was not the first time that she had brought her readers face to face with the horrors of war, but it was the most powerful reminder to date of the scale of the operations of D-Day. On 6 June that year almost 7,000 ships and landing craft had transported 156,000 infantrymen to the beaches of Normandy. Over the next weeks a further 2,500,000 would land on the coast of France to continue the push towards Berlin and the elimination of the Nazi threat. It was natural that newspaper and magazine editors would be following the story closely. But was it plausible that a glossy fashion magazine would want to take its readers into the heart of the war? After all, Vogue’s main fare was couture and culture, was it not?

Fashion is Indestructible by Cecil Beaton, 1941 British Vogue was called into being in the middle of the previous war. It was first published in London in September 1916, during the Battle of the Somme. Its pages were filled not only with fashion and features but also with articles on the war, including reports from Belgium on the plight of pregnant women giving birth close to the front line and the work of the First Aid Nursing Yeomanry in France. By 1939 Vogue was 23 years older and had gathered experience and influence. It was not surprising that in this new war the editor would want to help readers make sense of what was happening at home and abroad. During the Blitz, Audrey Withers, included a photograph of Vogue’s bomb-damaged offices and proudly told readers that the magazine, like its fellow Londoners, was being put to bed in a cellar. This was a reference to the cellar below No 1 New Bond Street where the Vogue staff retreated during the nightly air raids and where they carried on working as if it were entirely normal.
Audrey Withers once described herself as an unlikely editor of Vogue and this comment stuck to her reputation for the next sixty years. In fact, she was an outstanding editor. She was brave, single-minded and always alive to the most important matters of the day for her readership. At 5’ 10” in her stocking feet she was tall for a woman of the time. She had been brought up in an eccentric household where from a very young age she had been invited to engage with her father’s literary and artistic friends. One of these was the artist, Paul Nash, with whom she conducted a 16-year correspondence in which she tried out all her ideas about the world on him, often eliciting affectionate and amusing responses. It was Nash who advised her on attending Somerville College, Oxford and who applauded her decision to switch from English to PPE in her second term. And it was Nash who comforted her when she was awarded a 2.1 and not a First as she had hoped. When she decided to leave her first job in a bookshop and apply to Vogue, it was Nash who congratulated her on the appointment.

Audrey Withers by Clifford Coffin, 1947 Audrey started as a subeditor, the lowliest job in the magazine, in 1931, and gradually rose through managing editor to Editor in September 1940. Her greatest champion when she made the step up to the top job was Condé Nast himself. He wrote to Harry Yoxall, the managing director of Condé Nast Publications in London, to say he would rather ‘have an editor who can edit than an editor who can mix with society.’ She may not have had the right social connections, but she had the intelligence and courage to stand up to the most difficult of Vogue contributors. She once took on Edward Molyneux who threatened to pull his advertisements if he did not have control over which photographs she used in the magazine She refused. Vogue’s independence was more important to her than Molyneux’s contribution to the magazine. Her wartime Vogue is a remarkable body of work that deals with all aspects of war, from clothes rationing and austerity, through the roles women took on both in civilian life and in the armed forces to the great battles being fought abroad. Her main photographer, Cecil Beaton, was removed to India and China in 1942 and she wrote ruefully of how much his absence would mean to her readers. However, another photographer was waiting in the wings, and this was Lee Miller.

Self-portrait by Lee Miller ©www.Leemiller.co.uk Lee had begun her career in the 1920s as a model, appearing on the front cover of American Vogue in 1927. She was described as one of the most beautiful women in the world. Her life changed when she went to live in Paris in the early 1930s where she worked as Man Ray’s assistant. By the outbreak of the Second World War she had become a photographer with an exceptional eye and a singular ability to pick out the essence in a scene. This was to develop over the course of the Second World War. She arrived in London soon after the outbreak of war and applied to work for Vogue photographic studios in 1940. She worked as a fashion photographer for the magazine but also worked alongside features editor, Lesley Blanch, taking photographs of work done by the female armed services personnel.

Women of the Auxiliary Territorial Army operate a searchlight battery at South Mimms by Lee Miller ©www.Leemiller.co.uk The opportunity to get into France – occupied France – was only possible because of her US citizenship and the press accreditation Audrey had helped to secure at the end of 1942. Lee’s visit to the field hospital in Normandy in August 1944 left her deeply moved. Her photographs are fresh, absorbing and searingly honest, as is her writing: ‘Another ambulance arrived from the right and litters were swiftly transferred to the parlour floor. The wounded were not “knights in shining armour” but dirty, dishevelled, stricken figures … uncomprehending. They arrived from the front-line Battalion Aid Station in lightly laid on field dressings, tourniquets, blood-soaked slings … some exhausted and lifeless.’ Audrey was delighted with Lee’s work. She wrote later:
‘I made myself solely responsible for editing Lee’s precious articles. I used to begin by cutting whole paragraphs, then whole sentences, finally individual words. One by one to get it down. Always I tried to cut them in such a way that there would be the least possible loss of their impact. It was a painful business because it was all so good.’
What was new here, in Vogue, was the quality not only of the photographs but also of the writing. Combined it made some of the most powerful photojournalism of Vogue’s war. Today Lee Miller is well-known. When Audrey Withers agreed to sponsor her application for press accreditation there was little to suppose this would turn out to be an extraordinary relationship. Audrey later described it as the greatest journalistic experience of her war.
In October Lee had two features in Vogue, one on the battle for St Malo, where she had witnessed the use of Napalm, and the other from liberated Paris. She went on to produce articles on Operation Nordwind, a German offensive in Alsace, and then on the liberation of countries such as Liechtenstein. Her work became ever more intense as the war reached its conclusion. In April she entered the gates of Buchenwald and, just 12 hours after it was liberated, the concentration camp at Dachau. The photographs she sent back to London were so powerful and shocking that she sent an accompanying telegram ‘I IMPLORE YOU TO BELIEVE THAT THIS IS TRUE’. Audrey wrote that she had no difficulty in believing it was true: ‘The difficulty was, and still is, in trying to understand how it was possible for such horrors to be perpetrated not just in a fit of rage but systematically and carefully organised over years. To me, it was far more frightening than the existence of a Hitler or a Stalin and the fact that their crimes could not have been carried out without the willing cooperation of thousands who applied to work for the gulags and concentration camps just as if it was a job like any other.’
Audrey’s courage failed her. She could not bring herself to publish the photographs from Buchenwald and Dachau in her Victory issue of the magazine in June 1945. History, and she herself, has judged her harshly for that but both overlook the fact that she included Lee’s article in full. And the article is so packed with rage it almost burns the pages it was published on:
‘My fine Baedeker tour of Germany includes many such places as Buchenwald which were not mentioned in my 1913 edition, and if there is a later one, I doubt if they were mentioned there, either, because no one in Germany has ever heard of a concentration camp, and I guess they didn’t want any tourist business either. Visitors took one- way tickets only, in any case, and if they lived long enough they had plenty of time to learn the places of interest, both historic and modern, by personal and practical experimentation. . . Much had already been cleared up by that time, that is, there were no warm bodies lying around, and all those likely to drop dead were in hospital. Everyone had had a meal or two and were being sick in consequence – because of shrunk stomachs and emotion. There is a diet arranged for them now, very similar to what they have been receiving in texture, although the soup now contains vegetables and meat extracts. I had seen what they had, that emergency day; and you’d hesitate to put it in your pig bucket.
The 600 bodies stacked in the courtyard of the crematorium because they had run out of coal the last five days had been carted away until only a hundred were left; and the splotches of death from a wooden potato masher had been washed, because the place had to be disinfected; and the bodies on the whipping stalls were dummies instead of almost dead men who could feel but not react.’
As Audrey was a wordsmith, she knew the power of Lee’s words and I think it is telling that she chose not to tone down the fury that they conveyed.

Kate Winslet in LEE (Sky Cinema) The current film LEE, which is enjoying success worldwide, with Kate Winslet as Lee and Andrea Riseborough at Audrey, naturally focuses on Lee and her war photography. I just want to remind readers that without Audrey Withers, Lee’s work might never have gained the prominence in Vogue that it did. Lee was extraordinarily brave and brilliant but so too was her editor.


With thanks to the Lee Miller Archives for the use of two images www.leemiller.co.uk

Rosa Nostalgia – one of my favourites.
Julie’s Previous Blogs
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- HOME FIRES Series 2 Episode 1 Life on the Edge of EuropeWhen we left Great Paxford at the end of series 1 the villagers all stood on the street, spell-bound by the sight of hundreds of aircraft flying south. The Phoney War had come to an end and the real war was about to begin. In fact, by the time those planes were flying south,… Read more: HOME FIRES Series 2 Episode 1 Life on the Edge of Europe
- Home Fires Series TwoHome Fires series 2 begins on Sunday 3rd April at 9pm on ITV. It is so exciting to be going back to Great Paxford to see what will happen to the characters that we were introduced to in 2015. Many people have asked me over the last few months whether I have had to write… Read more: Home Fires Series Two
- Curves and CorsetsWhenever I give a talk about wartime fashion I get a host of memories from audience members who recall parachute silk dresses, Make-Do-And-Mend shirts, thrice darned stockings and coats made from blankets. Some people remember the era with pleasure and tell me about how they loved their Liberty bodice or their Land Army uniform. Others… Read more: Curves and Corsets
- Setting the Scene for HOME FIRES Episode 1The drama series, Home Fires, written and created by Simon Block, was inspired by my non-fiction book Jambusters (Home Fires in the USA) which looked at the activity of the Women’s Institutes on the British Home Front in the Second World War. Born in Canada in 1897, the Women’s Institute movement gave a voice to… Read more: Setting the Scene for HOME FIRES Episode 1
- A Grand PrizeI do not often have the opportunity to speak to someone who wants to make a serious difference to writers’ lives. Earlier this month, however, I had that opportunity and I wrote an article which I am reproducing here because I think the man behind the story is exceptional. Jeremy Mogford is a passionate man:… Read more: A Grand Prize
- How to Make a Drama out of a Crisis: HOME FIRES Episode 6When I set out to write a history of the wartime activities of the Women’s Institute of England and Wales in 2009 I had no inkling that it would lead to a full-blown television drama series. None at all. So you can imagine that it has been a journey of many exciting twists and turns:… Read more: How to Make a Drama out of a Crisis: HOME FIRES Episode 6
- The Value of Communication: For HOME FIRES Episode 5I’ve always been fascinated by communication. Not just in its literal form but in what it says about the human condition and how important it is to people to communicate and be communicated with. Throughout my many years of research into the history of the Second World War I have been struck by how much… Read more: The Value of Communication: For HOME FIRES Episode 5
- Love and Sex in Times of War: for HOME FIRES Episode 4‘ ‘If you put men and women together in close proximity in a danger shared, a mutual attraction is not only the inevitable result, it is what we should expect, and we should be very surprised and perturbed from a national point of view if it wasn’t.’ Thus wrote the English novelist, Barbara Cartland in… Read more: Love and Sex in Times of War: for HOME FIRES Episode 4
- Home Fires Episode 3: Love, War and HousecoatsBy the end of the Second World War the British government had such minute control over every aspect of people’s lives that it governed the length of men’s socks and the amount of metal and rubber in women’s corsets. Even trouser turn-ups were banned and only six designs of underwear for women were permitted. Food… Read more: Home Fires Episode 3: Love, War and Housecoats
- A little background for Home Fires Episode 3By the end of the Second World War the British government had such minute control over every aspect of people’s lives that it governed the length of men’s socks and the amount of metal and rubber in women’s corsets. Even trouser turn-ups were banned and only six designs of underwear for women were permitted. Food… Read more: A little background for Home Fires Episode 3
- Setting the Scene for Home Fires Episode 2Episode 2 of Home Fires takes place against a strange time for Britons during the Second World War. Britain declared war against Germany on 3 September 1939, Canada a week later on 10 September. In Britain it was followed by a combination of mass paralysis and near mass panic. There was a very real fear… Read more: Setting the Scene for Home Fires Episode 2
- Women’s Rights are Men’s Issues‘Women’s Rights are Men’s Issues’: thus spoke the great Meryl Streep on the BBC’s Today programme shortly before 8 o’clock this morning. She was being interviewed about the film Suffragette in which she plays the role of Mrs Pankhurst. Carey Mulligan, who plays the lead role in the film, pointed out, with frustration, that it… Read more: Women’s Rights are Men’s Issues
- A Young FestivalThe first Jersey Festival of Words took place this weekend and what a great success it was. This is a young festival, in every sense of the word. I do not mean that as an insult but rather as a compliment. First, I discovered that the only reason I was there was because the chairman’s… Read more: A Young Festival
- Hidden GemsI love nothing better than objects that tell a story. A small but perfectly formed exhibition at the Priest’s House in Wimborne, Dorset, is full of the most delightful, exquisite objects that tell the story of 100 years of the WI. Actually, it tells the story of the WI in Britain but it starts with… Read more: Hidden Gems
- September 2015Welcome to my 17th newsletter. A new and exciting chapter is opening, as Penguin USA publishes my original book Jambusters under a new title Home Fires. The drama Home Fires, starring Samantha Bond and Francesca Annis, will be shown on PBS Masterpiece starting on Sunday 4 October 2015 at 9pm EST.Contents © ITV-Home Fires© ITV-Home FiresJulie… Read more: September 2015
- For the Love of BooksBook festivals: love them or loathe them, they are part of an author’s life. The current best estimate of the number of literary festivals in the UK is 364. One for every day of the year except Christmas Day. I will have done twelve this year, that’s one a month, and by and large I… Read more: For the Love of Books
- August 2015Welcome to my 17th newsletter. A new and exciting chapter is opening, as Penguin USA publishes my original book Jambusters under a new title Home Fires. The drama Home Fires, starring Samantha Bond and Francesca Annis, will be shown on PBS Masterpiece starting on Sunday 4 October 2015 at 9pm EST.Contents Jambusters & Home Fires Fashion… Read more: August 2015
- Inspiring WomenI was recently asked to write a piece about women who have inspired me over the years. I thought long and hard about it. Some stand-out familiar names sprang to mind: Katherine Grainger, the greatest living British oarswoman; Angela Merkel; Meryl Streep and so on. However, I came to the conclusion that it is ordinary… Read more: Inspiring Women
- A Blithe Spirit – Peggy SumnerWhen an old person dies it is traditional to look back over their whole life, starting at the beginning and ending at the end. However, in the course of my work researching the social history of the Second World War I inevitably enter the latter part of people’s lives. The risk of talking to someone… Read more: A Blithe Spirit – Peggy Sumner
- May 2015Welcome to my 16th newsletter. In my last letter I started by saying that I was looking forward to a quieter period of planning for the future. That spectacularly failed to happen and I have had the busiest spring of my career to date.Contents Julie in her cameo-role costume after filming for six hours in… Read more: May 2015
- The Old and the NewThere is something rather extraordinary about the way history goes round in cycles. I’m not making a point about history repeating itself. That has been made often. I am talking about a cycle that I observed last week at the launch of Fashion on the Ration at the Imperial War Museum. When I was in… Read more: The Old and the New
- December 2014Welcome to my 15th newsletter. After an autumn of intense activity on all fronts I am looking forward to a quieter period of planning for the future.Contents Jambusters Fashion on the Ration Mountain Matters Hotel Majestic Pen Thoughts Future Events Samantha Bond: to feature on the forthcoming Jambusters Audio CDJambusters There is nothing to report on… Read more: December 2014
- A Word in Your EarThere is something deliciously private about the written word. That probably sounds slightly ridiculous, especially when my job is to publish and make public words that I write. But think about it for a second. The relationship between the reader and writer is intimate. It is one to one. I particularly feel that intimacy when… Read more: A Word in Your Ear
- July 2014Welcome to my 14th newsletter and the first one for almost a year. The reason for this gap is that I was waiting to be allowed to announce the news that ITV has commissioned a six-part drama series inspired by Jambusters. This is definitely the most exciting development in my writing career to date.Contents Jambusters are… Read more: July 2014
- June 2014Welcome to my 14th newsletter and the first one for almost a year. The reason for this gap is that I was waiting to be allowed to announce the news that ITV has commissioned a six-part drama series based on Jambusters. This is definitely the most exciting development in my writing career to date.Contents Jambusters are… Read more: June 2014
- The Beauty of KnowledgeThere is something very special about working in a library. All too often I end up working in my office at home. It is lovely and I do know how lucky I am with my view over the spires of Oxford. However, going to a library is like going to a cathedral of learning. Last… Read more: The Beauty of Knowledge
- ReconciliationToday, 16 August, is the date in 1945 when many in the Far Eastern prisoner of war camps were released. Most of the men had been POWs for 3 ½ years. Of the 60,000 who were forced to work on the notorious Thailand-Burma Railway, over 12,000 never returned. A shattering statistic. In other parts of… Read more: Reconciliation
- August 2013Welcome to my 13th newsletter. I’m shocked to see that I have not sent a letter out since January of this year, although I have been using www.facebook.com/Jambusters1 to mention the odd thing that is going on with the book. This book came out on 28 February 2013 and has been studiously ignored by Radio 4, all… Read more: August 2013
- Is Cooking an Art or a Science?The other day my youngest son said to me: ‘cooking is easy if you can read. Just follow the recipe.’ That got me thinking. Is cooking really as easy as that? Is it something we learn, we inherit from watching our parents in the kitchen, or what? Does one not need a bit of an… Read more: Is Cooking an Art or a Science?
- JambustersNow that this book is published, people are beginning to comment on the name, I just want to put the record straight and explain its origin. The title came from my younger brother, Tim. I was at home in the kitchen with my family in November 2009, celebrating the fact that Simon & Schuster had… Read more: Jambusters
- The Joys and Pitfalls of Oral HistoryIf someone in the pub tells you a story about their past, do you believe it wholly or do you think it might have been embellished a little to make it a cracking good yarn? It probably depends on who is telling you the story and how far-fetched it seems to you, given your experience.… Read more: The Joys and Pitfalls of Oral History
- January 2013Welcome to my 12th newsletter – the first of 2013. Happy New Year to you all. It is six months since I last wrote but there was little to report as I was in the final editing phase of my WI book and busy working on a long-term project with the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.… Read more: January 2013
- One Foot . . . And then AnotherAs we walked away from Henley Royal Regatta yesterday, my friend, Fiona, and I mused that it had been a strange week. The weather in the build-up to the regatta and during the five days of racing had proved testing, to put it mildly. The stream was strong and the wind often even stronger, so… Read more: One Foot . . . And then Another
- June 2012Welcome to my 11th newsletter. There is only one story to tell this quarter so I hope you will forgive me. I have to admit that when I received an email on Sunday 3 June at 11:08 with the subject ‘Invitation to private audience with the Dalai Lama, London, 20 June. The British in Tibet’,… Read more: June 2012
- March 2012Welcome to my 10th newsletter, written on the warmest day of the year thus far. 20C in March certainly does not feel normal.Contents Sticking My Oar In Children’s Tales Zeitgeist Jam Tomorrow Pen Thoughts And Finally… Forthcoming Events Sticking My Oar In Rowing is usually relegated to ‘and finally’ in my newsletters but this quarter… Read more: March 2012
- November 2011Welcome to my ninth newsletter, posted at the very end, I suspect, of the season of mellow fruitfulness. I can hardly remember a lovelier autumn and certainly the trees in my garden have put on an unrivalled display of beauty.Contents Mr Irvine laid to rest (for a while) The Warpath Leads to Woodstock E.E.K. Clowning… Read more: November 2011